Friction is what keeps one alive if there is a fall. Sometimes the human body is used for friction. Many belay devices aid the belayer in protecting the climber above or below. The belayer should be secured to a fixed anchor in certain situations, the climber outweighsoutweigh v.在重量(或价值等)上超过 his belayer.
固定保护绳
固定保护绳包括锚点、摩擦力和位置。
1.锚点
固定保护绳最重要的部分就是锚点。锚点是指绳索的固定点,例如树、岩石或其他结实的固定点。大多数固定保护绳事故都是由于保护者的失误造成的。因此尽可能使用两个锚点或绳套,并首先用力测试一下锚点。
2.摩擦力
在降落时,摩擦力是对人至关重要的因素。有时候,人体也被用于摩擦。有的固定保护绳装置协助保护者保护上面或下面的攀岩者。保护者应该受到保护,并有一个固定的锚点,以防攀岩者的体重超过保护者。
The belayer protects the life of the climber at all times. Should his/her climber fall, one hand is always the “brake hand”. The other hand is the “guide hand”. It is imperativeimperative n.命令, 诫命, 需要, 规则, 祈使语气 not to confuseconfuse vt.搞乱, 使糊涂 these functions in the heat of a fall. Practise until holding with the proper hand is automaticautomatic adj.自动的, 无意识的, 机械的 .
3. Position
Robbins continues by writing that friction is useless unless the body is bracedbraced adj.拉牢的 toward the direction of pull. Usually, this means a straight leg on the side of the rope going to the climber. The belayer places himself so as to minimizeminimize vt.将……减到最少 any adverseadverse adj.不利的, 敌对的, 相反的 action upon the body, and generally faces the wall.
保护者应该始终保证攀岩者的安全。如果有攀岩者掉了下去,保护者的一只手将被用于停止降落,而另一只手则用于指导。在有人降落的危险时刻,这些功能是不允许混淆的。一定要多加练习,直到双手形成了某种惯性。
3.位置
罗宾斯在书中说道,如果身体没有受到牵引力的作用,那么摩擦力也是没有任何用处的。通常情况下,这意味着靠近攀岩绳一侧的腿要保持挺直。保护者将自己固定,以减少身体的反作用,而且通常情况下要面对岩壁。
Since it is not easy to judge the direction of force in a fall, much less the extent of force, the belayer must evaluateevaluate vt.评价, 估计, 求……的值 each situation and make use of the rock for the most secure position. Often he/she must be prepared for forces from various directions.
Conservation
Conservationconservation n.保存, 保持, 守恒 of a route involves leaving it unchanged so others may enjoy nature and the climb. Use runners and “placed” protections whenever possible because they leave the rock intact. Pitons are not used for “free climbing” any more. They destroydestroy vt.破坏, 毁坏, 消灭 the rock. Bolts are used only when necessary, and, only with permission of the land manager. Take your litter with you unless it is organic. Even orange rinds are slow to disintegratedisintegrate vt.(使)分解, (使)碎裂 and not eaten by animals.
由于在降落过程中很难判断受力的方向,更不用说受力的大小,因此保护者必须对每一种情况进行估量,并利用岩石取得最安全的位置。通常,他们需要准备承受来自不同方向的力。
保护措施
对路线的保护措施包括保证路线的固定性,这样其他人可以享受自然和攀登的过程。随时使用带环和固定的保护装置,因为这样可以保持岩石的完整。自由攀登是不使用岩钉的。因为他们破坏了岩石。锚钉也只是在必要时,并获得当地管理人员同意之后才能使用。要随身携带垃圾袋,除非是有机的。即使桔子皮也需要很长时间才能被分解,而且不会有动物来吃。
Final Tips
The amount of strength one is able to conserve conserve vt.保存, 保藏 is far more important in rock climbing than the amount of strength one has. Move with a bit of spring and rhythmrhythm n.节奏, 韵律 . Rest when you can. While resting, study the climb ahead. Use leg musclesmuscle n.肌肉, 臂力 for climbing, arms for balance and security.
Cautioncaution n.小心, 谨慎, 警告: loose loose adj.宽松的, 不精确的, 不牢固的, 散漫的, 自由的 rock is your enemy. It is impossible to tell whether a hold is solid by looking at it. All handholds should be tested. Handholds are struck with the heelheel n.脚后跟, 踵, 跟部 of the hand; footholdsfoothold n.立足处 are kicked for testing.
最后提示
在攀岩运动中,个人的耐力要比爆发力重要得多。要按照一定的弹力和节奏移动。在允许的情况下,可以休息。但是在休息过程中,要考虑后面的攀登。利用腿部肌肉攀登,用胳膊来保持平衡,以保证自身安全。
注意:松软的岩石是你的天敌。仅仅看表面很难判断你攀住的岩石是否结实。任何一个手点都要仔细检查。手点要用手的手掌后部进行检查,而脚点要通过踢来检查。
Rock climbing (not mountaineering as in climbing Mt. Everest) is a fastgrowing sport for all ages and both sexes. Indoor “Rock Gyms” are popular in the megapolismegapolis n.(=megalopolis)大城市, 多人口地 for staying in shape. They are no substitutesubstitute n.代用品, 代替者, 替代品 for outdoor climbing on “real” rock.
攀岩并非攀登喜马拉雅山的登山运动,它是一项发展迅速的运动,适合任何年龄和性别。用于保持体形的室内“攀岩场馆”在大城市非常流行。但是它们无法取代室外真正的攀岩运动。
攀岩运动是利用人类原始的攀爬本能,借以各种装备作安全保护,攀登一些岩石所构成的峭壁、裂缝、大圆石以及人工岩壁的运动。由于攀登者在岩壁上稳如壁虎、娇似雄鹰,攀登动作极具美感和观赏性的运动,攀岩运动又被人们誉为“岩壁芭蕾”。攀岩运动迎合了现代人们心理和生理的需求,它不仅仅是一种极限运动,更是一种不懈追求的精神!攀岩是年轻人的运动,是勇气和体力的体现,因此深受广大青少年所喜好。本文旨在向大家介绍一下攀岩运动,要进行真正的攀岩运动必须经过专业指导。