It’s dawn①on a quiet Hawaiian beach， and huge waves are rolling in. As the sun appears on the horizon②， a few stoked surfers paddle out through the waves. For most people， cold， rough③ocean is the last place they want to be at daybreak. But for surfers， this is heaven.
Surfing’s ancient origins lie along the shores of Hawaii， which is still considered the sport’s spiritual home. In the nineteenth century， long before surfing became popular elsewhere， Hawaiian chiefs were masters of the waves. They had their own private surf beaches， and rode waves on long， heavy wooden boards.
Born in 1890， Hawaiian Duke Kahanamoku is one of the king kahunas of surfing folklore. During surfing demonstrations， he would often perform daring tricks， like standing on his head while surfing！ Duke was an Olympic swimmer， a professional actor， and even a national hero. In 1925， he used his surfboard to power through rough waves and save eight people from an overturned④boat.
① dawnn. 黎明，拂晓
② horizonn. 地平线
③ roughadj. 狂暴的，剧烈的
④ overturnedadj. 翻转的，倒下的
冲浪的乐趣
黎明时分，在夏威夷某个宁静的海滩，巨浪一波波地卷向岸边。太阳刚从地平线升起，几个跃跃欲试的冲浪好手便涉浪划出。大多数人绝不会愿意在天刚破晓时跃入冰冷而又风大浪急的海中。但对于冲浪者来说，这里是他们的乐园。
冲浪运动最早发源于夏威夷海岸，这里至今仍被公认为这一运动的精神归宿。早在十九世纪，冲浪运动尚未风行其他地方之前，夏威夷的酋长就已个个是冲浪高手了。他们拥有自己的私人冲浪滩，并踩在又长又重的木板上驾驭海浪。
生于 1890年的夏威夷人杜克·卡那莫库是民间传说中冲浪的佼佼者。当他示范冲浪动作时，经常会表演大胆过人的特技，例如倒立式冲浪！杜克是奥运游泳选手专业演员，甚至还是夏威夷民族英雄。1925年，他曾踏着冲浪板奋力冲破惊涛骇浪，从一艘翻覆的船中救出8条人命。