His home letters from the islands are numerous enough; everything there being so new and so delightful that he found joy in telling of it; also, he was still young enough to air his triumphs a little, especially when he has dined with the Grand Chamberlain and is going to visit the King!
The languorous life of the islands exactly suited Mask Twain.All his life he remembered them--always planning to return, some day, to stay there until he died.In one of his note-books he wrote: "Went with Mr.Dam to his cool, vine-shaded home; no care-worn or eager, anxious faces in this land of happy contentment.God, what a contrast with California and the Washoe!"And again:
"Oh, Islands there are on the face of the deep Where the leaves never fade and the skies never weep."The letters tell the story of his sojourn, which stretched itself into nearly five months.
To Mrs.Jane Clemens and Mrs.Moffett, in St.Louis:
HONOLULU, SANDWICH ISLANDS, April 3, 1866.
MY DEAR MOTHER AND SISTER,--I have been here two or three weeks, and like the beautiful tropical climate better and better.I have ridden on horseback all over this island (Oahu) in the meantime, and have visited all the ancient battle-fields and other places of interest.I have got a lot of human bones which I took from one of these battle-fields--I guess I will bring you some of them.I went with the American Minister and took dinner this evening with the King's Grand Chamberlain, who is related to the royal family, and although darker than a mulatto, he has an excellent English education and in manners is an accomplished gentleman.The dinner was as ceremonious as any I ever attended in California--five regular courses, and five kinds of wine and one of brandy.He is to call for me in the morning with his carriage, and we will visit the King at the palace--both are good Masons--the King is a Royal Arch Mason.After dinner tonight they called in the "singing girls," and we had some beautiful music; sung in the native tongue.
The steamer I came here in sails tomorrow, and as soon as she is gone Ishall sail for the other islands of the group and visit the great volcano--the grand wonder of the world.Be gone two months.
Yrs.
SAM.
To Mrs.Jane Clemens and Mrs.Moffett, in St.Louis:
WAILUKU SUGAR PLANTATION, ISLAND OF MAUI, H.I., May 4,1866.
MY DEAR MOTHER AND SISTER,--11 O'clock at night.--This is the infernalist darkest country, when the moon don't shine; I stumbled and fell over my horse's lariat a minute ago and hurt my leg, so I must stay here tonight.
I got the same leg hurt last week; I said I hadn't got hold of a spirited horse since I had been on the island, and one of the proprietors loaned me a big vicious colt; he was altogether too spirited; I went to tighten the cinch before mounting him, when he let out with his left leg (?) and kicked me across a ten-acre lot.A native rubbed and doctored me so well that I was able to stand on my feet in half an hour.It was then half after four and I had an appointment to go seven miles and get a girl and take her to a card party at five.
I have been clattering around among the plantations for three weeks, now, and next week I am going to visit the extinct crater of Mount Haleakala--the largest in the world; it is ten miles to the foot of the mountain; it rises 10,000 feet above the valley; the crater is 29 miles in circumference and 1,000 feet deep.Seen from the summit, the city of St.
Louis would look like a picture in the bottom of it.
As soon as I get back from Haleakala (pronounced Hally-ekka-lah) I will sail for Honolulu again and thence to the Island of Hawaii (pronounced Hah-wy-ye,) to see the greatest active volcano in the world--that of Kilauea (pronounced Kee-low-way-ah)--and from thence back to San Francisco--and then, doubtless, to the States.I have been on this trip two months, and it will probably be two more before I get back to California.
Yrs affy SAM.
He was having a glorious time--one of the most happy, carefree adventures of his career.No form of travel or undertaking could discountenance Mark Twain at thirty.
To Mrs.Orion Clemens, in Carson City:
HONOLULU, May 22, 1866.
MY DEAR SISTER,--I have just got back from a sea voyage--from the beautiful island of Maui, I have spent five weeks there, riding backwards and forwards among the sugar plantations--looking up the splendid scenery and visiting the lofty crater of Haleakala.It has been a perfect jubilee to me in the way of pleasure.
I have not written a single line, and have not once thought of business, or care or human toil or trouble or sorrow or weariness.Few such months come in a lifetime.
I set sail again, a week hence, for the island of Hawaii, to see the great active volcano of Kilauea.I shall not get back here for four or five weeks, and shall not reach San Francisco before the latter part of July.
So it is no use to wait for me to go home.Go on yourselves.
If I were in the east now, I could stop the publication of a piratical book which has stolen some of my sketches.
It is late-good-bye, Mollie, Yr Bro SAM.
To Mrs.Jane Clemens and Mrs.Moffett, in St.Louis:
HONOLULU, SANDWICH ISLANDS, June 21,1866.
MY DEAR MOTHER AND SISTER,--I have just got back from a hard trip through the Island of Hawaii, begun on the 26th of May and finished on the 18th of June--only six or seven days at sea--all the balance horse-back, and the hardest mountain road in the world.I staid at the volcano about a week and witnessed the greatest eruption that has occurred for years.
I lived well there.They charge $4 a day for board, and a dollar or two extra for guides and horses.I had a pretty good time.They didn't charge me anything.I have got back sick--went to bed as soon as Iarrived here--shall not be strong again for several days yet.I rushed too fast.I ought to have taken five or six weeks on that trip.
A week hence I start for the Island of Kauai, to be gone three weeks and then I go back to California.